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Monthly Archives: September 2008
Things I’m really good at now because of culinary school, #1: Removing the skin from fish
Sometimes I have to remind myself that all of those early mornings (in the winter, especially!) were worth it. I’ve definitely learned a lot in the two-and-a-half years I’ve been back at school — while everyone else I know is sleeping in, meeting up for breakfast, and generally enjoying their weekends. I thought I might start journaling these things so I remember just why I spent all that time and money.
Tonight, I decided we’d have fish for dinner — it seemed like a good, healthy dinner after a weekend of general debauchery. I stopped at Whole Foods (sigh, I do have an unhealthy love of that store) and got some haddock that was on sale. When I got home, I realized I’d have to take the skin off. I flashed back to my first ever class at Johnson and Wales.
In this first class, I was generally like a deer in headlights. I was thrown into the fire, so to speak, and all of my other classmates had been in at least one other class before this. Everything was new to me! I didn’t realize that we didn’t dry the dishes, we let them air dry for sanitation purposes. I didn’t realize that we put wet paper towels under our cutting boards to keep them from wiggling on the stainless steel work tables. I didn’t know how to put my knives away in the knife kit I was issued. I didn’t even know I was supposed to be wearing white socks rather than the black socks I wore that day (lucky for my, my first chef didn’t give inspections!) So, when the chef put my “team” on the fish station and later said we needed to take the skin off of the fish before cooking it and then walked away, I was very perplexed.
Truth is, I’d never been good at that — I usually just cooked fish with the skin on and ate around it when I cooked at home. It peels off so much better when it’s cooked! I spent the next 15 minutes basically sawing the skin off in little pieces taking a lot of the fish with it. I finally asked the chef for help and, of course, he showed me how it was done…and I still didn’t get it. It was a good thing that fish was battered and fried because I had really made a mess of it.
Over the course of many more classes, I’ve finally figured out the trick. By cutting into the fish and holding a sharp chef’s knife at about a 45 degree angle with the blade up against the skin, you can easily get the skin off by wiggling it at the same time you are moving the knife along the skin.
Tonight I showed that haddock fillet who was boss and that skin came off in just a few seconds. It was a real reminder that I have learned a skill — one skill of many that has helped me become a much better cook. I suppose that was worth waking up at least one cold, snowy, winter morning at 5:30 a.m.
Posted in Culinary School, Misc.
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Meyer Lemon Salmon Tartar
Once in awhile I like to make really fancy stuff for my friends. I won’t lie — sometimes I just cook for the ooohs and aaahs. The shocker about this dish is that it’s incredibly easy. The hardest part is finding sushi grade salmon (and, well, paying for it!) I was able to get mine at Whole Foods, but any good fish monger should have it. One thing is for sure, now that I know how simple it is to make a tasty tartar, I won’t be ordering it in any restaurants!
Meyer Lemon Salmon Tartar
Serves 4

8 oz. sushi grade salmon
Juice of one Meyer lemon*
Zest of one Meyer lemon
1 tbsp. parsley, finely chopped
2 tbsp. shallot, finely chopped
1 tbsp. honey
1 tsp. Dijon Mustard
1/4 cup olive oil
Salt and pepper, to taste
Mixed greens, avocado, tomatoes for garnish
Dice the salmon into about 1/4 inch cubes.

To make the dressing, whisk together the lemon juice, lemon zest, parsley, shallot, honey, mustard, and olive oil. Add salt and pepper to taste.

Put the diced salmon in a bowl. Sprinkle with a pinch of salt and mix together. Add about 3-4 tablespoons of the dressing and stir to combine. Let this mixture sit in the refrigerator for 30 minutes (or up to 12 hours.)
To plate, use a round mold or cookie cutter (a tomato paste can would work well for this, too.) Put the mold on the plate you will serve on and fill the mold with 1/4 (about 2 oz.) of the tartar mixture. Pack in tightly and then lift the mold.
Garnish the plate with avocado, tomatoes, and mixed greens. Use the remaining dressing to spoon over the greens when serving.
* If you can’t find Meyer lemons, use a regular lemon but you might need to add more honey as Meyer lemons are more sweet (and less tart) than normal lemons. Just add extra honey until the dressing tastes balanced.
Posted in Appetizer, Cuisine, Fancy Pants, Fish, Healthy, Meat, Recipe
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Parmesan Pasta with Peas
Sean and I were driving home from Albany the other night and we were hungry. Of course, I had to make a pit stop at the one rest area on the Mass Pike that only had McDonalds. So, instead, we got some Chex Mix to tide us over. By the time we got home, there was only time to throw together something quick and this did it. It was super easy to make with basic pantry items — and it was super delicious. Just what we needed after a long drive.
Sidebar: I love frozen peas. As a kid I always hated peas — I grew up with canned peas and I hated the mushy mouthfeel. Imagine my surprise when I tried fresh peas for the first time as an adult. They were so delicious. I find that frozen peas taste closer to fresh peas than canned peas. They are easy to always keep on hand, cheap, and good to toss into everything from rice to soup to pasta. An easy, peasy way of getting some veggies, too.
Parmesan Pasta with Peas
Serves 2

6 oz. pasta of your choice*
1 cup frozen peas
1 tbsp. butter
1 tbsp. olive oil
2 tbsp. shallots, finely chopped
1/3 cup grated parmesan cheese
1/4 cup parsley, finely chopped
1/4 cup toasted pine nuts
Salt and pepper, to taste
Bring a large pot of water to a boil. Add a big pinch of salt and the dried pasta. When the pasta is about 1-minute from al dente, toss in the peas. Drain.

Meanwhile, heat the butter and olive oil in a large skillet. Once the butter is melted and bubbly, add the shallots and cook 2 minutes or until soft. Toss in the cooked pasta and peas. Add parmesan cheese, parsley, and pine nuts. Stir to combine. Add salt and freshly ground pepper to taste.
* I used a combination of angel hair and pasta shaped like little snails because that’s what I had. Anything tubular or shell shaped works particularly well with this because it gives the peas a place to settle so you get peas with every bite. However, in a pinch, any pasta will work.
Posted in Comfort Food, Cuisine, Healthy, Main Dish, Pasta, Peas, Recipe, Side Dish, Starch, Vegetables, Vegetarian
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